|
|
Post by 1970bayboy on Mar 25, 2007 18:49:35 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by commercialair on Mar 25, 2007 21:33:49 GMT -5
I didn't take my lines off. In fact, I didn't touch the brakes at all. I just removed the 4 bolts at the spindle, the lower shock bolt and the 4 cover bolts and swung everything out of the way.
Chris
|
|
|
|
Post by 1970bayboy on Mar 25, 2007 22:08:08 GMT -5
huh ,
my break lines go right through my swing plate , so there was no way to remove the swing plate with out removing that break line? maybe mine ins different? I also had to undo my cv joint to get it out of the way ? I removed my swing plate to notch it for the suspension travel i suppose if you did not do that it would have been a little earlier? does your spring plate sit in the middle of the opening now? close to where mine is or are you a little lower ( higher when sitting on the ground ) ??
Joby
|
|
|
|
Post by commercialair on Mar 25, 2007 23:13:27 GMT -5
How low are you dropping it Joby? I just lowered it one spline and I'll adjust it if I need to once the whole thing is back together. I just pulled everything forward on the CV's slightly and it gave me enough room, no notching for me. It's only up about 1 cm from the stop.
Chris
|
|
|
|
Post by 1970bayboy on Mar 26, 2007 18:55:45 GMT -5
I see that is the difference,
When I went to ken with the whole drop Milton idea he said a good way to do it is drop spindles in the front (done ) and to drop the rear to check out the guy's on samba , I looked there and most of them were going 2 notches ( on the outside plate ) down in the rear , when you do this the spring plate sits in the middle of the travel distance ( stock ) so to give it full travel after you lower it two notches you should grind the spring plate down a little ( approx 2 cm tapered up toward the front to nothing ) So that is the way i did it. But I think I may have gone 3 notches by mistake, I will have to wait ( waiting on wheel adapters ) until it is on the ground to see for sure, but I have a feeling poor Milton may be dragging his a$$.
Joby
|
|
|
|
Post by bretto on Mar 26, 2007 19:42:55 GMT -5
throw a narrowed beam in it and make it sit proper  |
|
|
|
Post by 1970bayboy on Mar 26, 2007 22:42:58 GMT -5
how much work is that? is it expansive and is it adjustable??
Joby
|
|
|
|
Post by karmann57 on Mar 27, 2007 7:37:37 GMT -5
If you aren't up to doing it yourself, Franklin's VW Werks in Washington is where I got the 3" narrowed beam in my Ghia. Just for a narrowed/adjustable beam is $550US and I would figure about $100 shipping both ways (at least). Then you have to narrow tie rods, etc.
If you did want to tackle it yourself or can find someone local to do it Ken did have a set of bay beam adjusters from a cancelled order or something, but that was awhile ago so you might want to check.
Shane
|
|
|
|
Post by bullyboy on Mar 27, 2007 8:00:20 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by bretto on Mar 27, 2007 11:56:00 GMT -5
I've installed a few bug ones, and a (split) bus one. The only time consuming part is narrowing the tie rods and re-tapping them, and narrowing the leaves and re-drilling them. Its not a "hard" job just time consuming. Yes, they are adjustable. I made my bug one myself, cut it up, used a square jig, tacked it, and had my neighbor (tig) weld it back together. (shock towers and 3.5") as far as a bus one, you can buy stock width, or narrowed 2"-6.5"? but personally, I would just buy one., seeing as I only have a mig.
|
|
|
|
Post by davejohansen on Mar 27, 2007 13:30:37 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by 1970bayboy on Apr 10, 2007 22:12:00 GMT -5
Well, I finally got the rim situation figured out ( Thanks Shane ) and got Milton on the ground tonight so i took him out for a run around the block ( not running well but that is another post ) and took some pictures on some flat ground. Turns out he is lowered perfect , well on one side anyway still have to do the drivers side rear ( It was too tight against the wall before ) Here are some new pictures.   |
|
