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Post by davejohansen on Apr 2, 2007 20:12:50 GMT -5
Never built a engine before and found a spreadsheet on Samba that lists all the parts required (for a longblock) and totals the costs. Just ran some numbers $2,600.00  (assuming I really won't be able to use anything from an old 1500 I have.) ???I'm gonna have to increase my pop/beer bottle collecting  Am I shooting too high or is this on the mark. Just a little shocked after seeing ads for rebuilt longblock 1600 for less than $800 US. I didn't price out the cheapest of the parts but not the expensive racing stuff either. Dave PS I'll accept donations of pop/beer bottle anytime. |
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Post by commercialair on Apr 2, 2007 20:35:19 GMT -5
$2600 isn't out of line for an engine that will last and perform. $800 for an unknown longblock, that may only get you around the block once, will be more expensive in the long run. You can get good scrap $$ for old heads and cases if your pop bottle supply dries up. Aluminum sells for big bucks! ;D Also, be glad you're not building a hotrod 36hp engine. Half the ponies for twice the money.  |
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Post by dpeters81westy on Apr 2, 2007 20:36:20 GMT -5
Dave, I'm a firm believer in "build it yourself". I had never rebuilt an engine before...when I pulled my first air-cooled Type 1 engine apart for a rebuild. I would say "it depends on what you want out of it". A stock 1500cc motor is likely a reasonably affordable motor to rebuild. By rebuild I'll clarify as best I can. - Examine the engine case to determine if an "align bore" is required to make the bearing seats round again. - Re-Cut the crankshaft if required-otherwise a micro-polish - New Main, Rod and Cam bearings. - Re-size or replace connecting rods. ( for the most part I just used new bearings) -New Pistons (actually affordable and 1600 or 1641cc available with no machining) -Re-Build Heads ( in my case they were in good shape and didn't need guides or bushings..just a clean-up on the valve seats) -Gasket Set - John Muir's book "How to keep your Volkswagen Alive - A manual of step-by-step procedures for the compleat idiot" The more power you want out of your engine...the more complex it gets. I enjoy building motors..and have been taking a keen interest in "blue-printing" and "balancing" for longevity. I'm sure you'll get more ideas and opinions from the others here... - Doug  |
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Post by davejohansen on Apr 2, 2007 21:31:04 GMT -5
All things considered, I guess the price is right for a stroked engine. It includes everything new from a case machined for a stroked engine, full flowed and such. New heads, new crank, new cam, etc etc etc. About the only decent used parts I have from the stuff that came with my bus was a set of DP heads, they're just stock (part number ended in 345 I think) and will probably hinder the performance that I am hoping for.
Dave
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Post by bullyboy on Apr 3, 2007 18:44:52 GMT -5
don't forget $200 for balancing. Great investment even on a stocker. Vibration can kill an engine in no time. A few bucks on measuring tools is good too. Don't trust the parts to fit first time out. Spend the money on good quality parts and you have to worry less about fit. Anytime you want to "shoot the poop" about engines give me a call Dave. I'll help any way I can. I just finished my 2110cc build I just need an exhaust and get my powder coating done. Where I'm at so far  |
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Post by dpeters81westy on Apr 3, 2007 20:58:29 GMT -5
Here's my latest additions to my growing tool collection.     The NEXT engine build is gonna be a good one... - Doug |
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Post by davejohansen on Apr 3, 2007 21:06:45 GMT -5
Doug
..those look like they come Princess Auto.. how much was the 6 6pc telescoping set?
Dave
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